Fertility and pH are two factors that influence how well your plants will grow. You must have adequate nutrients for the growth of your plants. The pH of soil determines whether the existing nutrients are even available to your plants. Read the following definitions carefully.

What is pH?

This is a measure of the amount of hydrogen ions available in the soil. PH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14 with 6-7 being considered neutral. Below 6 indicates an acidic soil and above 7 indicates an alkaline soil. Most plants, shrubs and trees prefer a neutral pH. Therefore, either acidic or alkaline soils will need to have their pH adjusted through soil additives.

What are Nutrients?

Nutrients are the available nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other minerals. The various minerals, needed in only tiny amounts, are normally listed on fertilizer labels as being micronutrients. Each fertilizer label lists the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available as a set of numbers: 5-13-3 is one example. There are many other combinations possible. These nutrients are always listed in the same order regardless of which brand of fertilizer you purchase.

How do I determine the Nutrients Available?

You have two choices. You may purchase test kits available in most garden centers for pH and nutrients. It is a simple matter to follow the directions. Be aware that any discrepancy in following those instructions will lead to invalid results. If you do it yourself, you are forced to make your own decisions about which soil amendments are needed. Be sure to record your testing results for future reference. It may be important to keep track of your soil pH and nutrient level over many years.

Another choice available to gardeners in the United States is their local Cooperative Extension offices that normally have soil testing available for a very low cost. If you live elsewhere in the world, please contact your local garden center for information on where to get these tests done professionally. The charges for these tests vary widely.

If you choose the professional testing lab, you will receive an analysis back that will make specific suggestions for improving your soil's pH and nutrient content. The lab should provide you with specific recommendations for improving your soil.

If you've been following this series of articles (check the archives and featured article list), you should now have the laboratory test results for your soil's nutrients and pH.

What do you do now?

Look at the information given in your test results. It should list information for pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. A comprehensive report will tell you exactly how much of each amendment you need to add to bring your soil to the recommended levels of pH and nutrients. Read through the following sections and use the suggested amendments. Please note that I prefer gardening with no chemicals and tend to rely on natural ingredients that can be purchased at most garden centers or found in your own compost pile.

pH: For low pH, add agricultural lime, borax, or gypsum in recommended amounts. Unleached hardwood ashes can be used. If you have high pH, add organic matter in the form of chopped oak leaves, cottonseed meal, or acid peat moss. Compost will help neutralize soil too.

Nitrogen. Quick acting: Add Calcium nitrate, Sodium nitrate, or Potassium nitrate in the recommended amounts. Slow acting: Add Ammonium nitrogen, Ammonium sulfate, or Urea in the suggested amounts.

Phosphorus. Quick acting: Add any complete fertilizer for a quick fix to the problem. Slow acting: Use rock phosphate that breaks done very slowly. Potassium: Quick acting: Will be included in most fertilizers. Just be sure to add fertilizer at the strengths recommended by the laboratory report. Slow acting: Use granite dust, greensand, or potash in suggested amounts.

What Do I Do Next?

First, gather tools needed for gardening. These are best purchased in the fall at the annual clearance sales held by discount stores or seasonal garden centers. Future articles will discuss tools, but everyone needs these basics: a flat-edged shovel and a heart-shaped digging shovel (pointed on the tip); a large bag of flour, garden string, rope, or even a garden hose for marking the edge of new garden plots; weed killer for killing off all plants in a new garden plot; proper amounts of the recommended soil amendments discussed in this article - talk to your local garden center for help in determining how much you need for the size of your garden plot; and a garden rototillers (may be rented).

Once you have prepared your garden bed for planting (discussed in future articles), you will need your plants, trees, vines, or shrubs or seeds from the local store. Small hand tools for weeding, transplanting, and pruning will be needed once you are ready to plant your garden. Again, the fall is the best time to buy these. f